February 25, 2022

By Viva Noronha / Artwork by Erin Sass

I am so happy to be back with the first Friday Fridge Clean out of 2022! I spent my winter break back home in Dubai with my family and was determined to pen a fridge clean out recipe while there, given the contrast of the contents of my mum’s fridge and mine. However, every time I ventured to scour the fridge, expecting to find at least a couple of wilting greens or almost-expired dairy, I was greeted with not one, not two, but multiple containers of freshly prepared curries, grains, or delicious leftovers from the night before. The luxury of having nutritious food that only needs a few minutes of reinvigorating in a microwave is one that becomes infrequent as we grow older, and one I will never again take for granted. As imagined, my return to the grind of student life, combined with the hermitizing weather conditions in Montreal, has resulted in a pile up of month-old groceries in my own fridge that are begging to see the light of day.

I returned to my apartment last night, fresh off my first in-person exam in two years, with a voracious appetite. I began gathering the admittedly slim pickings with the most potential: a large pack of baby spinach bought on special from Segals, an assortment of cheeses accrued during a manic charcuterie run, and a value-pack of rigatoni that I’ve been dipping into for weeknight meals. I was quickly inspired by a pasta coated in a glossy, ambiguous green sauce that I used to devour in my high school cafeteria, and I decided to transform the bottomless mound of spinach into a riff on pesto. I say riff, as in this version, I cook my spinach down with some garlic and seasoning and throw everything into a food processor, instead of the more romantic method of melding the raw ingredients together using a mortar and pestle. 

Another boon of going home is that I am sent back with an assortment of nuts that my mum insists are vital for brain health. Among these are cashews, which I used for the pesto, and chopped walnuts as a garnish. These nuggets of healthy fat, in addition to caramelized leeks, compensate for this dish’s lack of protein and provide texture. In my mission to waste-not, I threw the leek leaves (after a thorough washing, as there may be dirt ensconced in the leave folds) into the pasta water as it was coming up to a boil to impart a sweet but not pungent allium flavor that I have harnessed for many a stock before. 

Finally, I opted for Grand Castelli, a hard Italian cheese that mirrors parmesan in its nuttiness, to round out the pesto, as well as a crumble of gorgonzola for garnish. This funky cheese, in a conservative amount, balances out the sweetness of the leeks and cashews. Since it’s a bit of a wild card, it’s up to the home cook to decide how much they want to add. While the dish is relatively quick to pull together, there is an artful balance to be struck with the techniques of finishing the almost- cooked pasta in the sauce, and tossing it all together with gradual additions of pasta water to achieve the desired consistency. I would suggest adding in the pasta water half a ladleful at a time and waiting for most of it to absorb or evaporate before adding more, until the sauce is glossy and coating every ridge of the rigatoni. Unfortunately, I stuffed all my lemons into my birthday roast chicken, but a squeeze of lemon at the end will help to brighten up the dish.

Spinach Pesto Rigatoni with Caramelized Leeks

Ingredients (serves 1-2):

  • 200g Rigatoni (or pasta of choice)
  • Olive oil, as needed
  • 2 packed cups baby spinach
  • 4 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 1 tbsp heavy cream
  • 1 leek, bulb sliced, leaves whole
  • 1/4 cup white wine (optional)
  • Salt, pepper, chili flakes as needed
  • 5-8 cashews, soaked in water for 20 minutes to soften
  • 1/2 cup Gran Castelli cheese, grated
  • Gorgonzola cheese, as desired
  • 5-10 toasted walnut halves, roughly chopped
  • Lemon juice, as desired

Steps:

  1. Bring enough water to cover 200g of pasta to a boil. Time this such that the pasta is slightly below al dente by the time the pesto is prepared and the leeks are caramelized.
  2. Wilt spinach and 2 cloves of crushed garlic in olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat, adding seasoning as required (hold on the salt here as we will finish the sauce with the salty pasta water). Add heavy cream to help with wilting and ensure easy blending. Cook until the spinach has just softened and the cream has not fully evaporated. 
  3. Transfer the contents of the pan into a food processor or blender. Add soaked cashews and Gran Castelli cheese. Blend and and add olive oil as needed, until a paste-like consistency has been reached, or blend further for a smoother sauce.
  4. Soften leeks in olive oil in the same skillet over medium heat with remaining crushed garlic, and season with salt and pepper. Deglaze pan with white wine and reduce until the alcohol evaporates.
  5. Transfer pesto to the pan and add pasta directly from the boiling water using a slotted spoon. Begin tossing all the ingredients together, adding in pasta water half a ladleful at a time. Toss until most water evaporates. Repeat this until the sauce is coating the pasta and the pasta is cooked al dente. 
  6. Garnish with chopped walnuts, crumbled Gorgonzola cheese, a crack of black pepper, a splash of olive oil, and a squeeze of lemon.

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