Along the Lines of

HOT CHOCOLATE

January 6, 2022

By Bavisha ThurairajahΒ  / Artwork by Kelly Xiang

Hot chocolate… The perfect combination of bitter, sweet, and smooth to get you through the coldest days of winter. My typical at-home mug of hot chocolate consists of the powdery contents of a hot chocolate packet, hot water, milk, and a few marshmallows to sweeten things. However, sometimes I feel like I want a richer drink, so I use just milk without the water. There are many ways to make hot chocolate with numerous ingredient possibilities, each ingredient playing a specific role in producing a unique flavour and texture profile. The long, transnational history of drinking chocolate gave ample opportunity for different nations and cultures around the world to make their own recipes of chocolate-based beverages, some similar to what we know in Canada as hot chocolate. Each variation has its own distinctive taste and consistency due to the use of local ingredients, cooking processes, and tools. Before taking a closer look at some of these national variations on hot chocolate, which may even have their own subnational or cultural variations, let’s take a look at that long, transnational history of hot chocolate. 

The history of this wonderful drink starts with the Mayan Empire and the edible seeds or beans of the Theobroma cacao tree indigenous to the Amazon basin region. This tree grows in the tropical climates of the regions specifically within 20Β° of the equator, within the boundaries of the β€˜cacao belt.’ Going back to 600-400 BCE, the highly valued cacao beans were thought to be β€œa gift from the gods” that partly made up the essence of life. They were used as currency in the exchange of goods or as gifts during festivals and holidays, and they played an important medicinal and religious role. The Maya prepared chocolatl  by grinding the cacao beans and making a paste by mixing them with water, then adding cornmeal and chili peppers. Pouring the drink from one cup to another a few times gave the beverage a frothy, foamy consistency, which would then be served cold. The Aztecs also enjoyed a similar type of cold, spicy, chocolate beverage. The taste of this ancient drink was very different from the one we now associate with chocolate-based drinks. 


In the early 15th century, cacao beans and this early version of hot chocolate were introduced to Spain by Spanish explorers. The drink became very popular among the Spanish nobility, but the recipe changed; King Charles V of Spain removed chili peppers from the mix and added sugar to it before serving it hot. Along with the Spanish nobility, the Portuguese Empire played a major role in initiating the start of the large-scale expansion of cacao production by using lands they had colonized and the people they had forced into slavery. The high level of global trade and travel at that time resulted in a high demand for cacao beans and chocolate drinks across Europe. Subsequently, cacao cultivation expanded across South American and African nations, as well as some Asian countries, like the Philippines. By the 17th century, other European countries, such as Britain, started producing their own drinking chocolate in the metropole and in some foreign colonies, and the drink’s popularity grew even more. It is only after this point that solid chocolate, in the way we know it today, was produced and refined by Swiss innovators in the 1870s. Now that we have briefly seen how hot chocolate variations came about, let’s jump into the specificities of a few recipes around the world.

TSOKOLATE

As a country located within the cacao belt, the Philippines was and still is a perfect growing environment for the cacao tree. Tsokolate is a Filipino, chocolate-based drink made from chocolate produced within the country, which comes in the form of β€œdiscs or tablets of ground cacao nibs with sugar known as tablea or sikwate.” Traditionally served in silver pots, the Filipino drink has a bitter, mildly sweet flavour and a grainy texture that comes from the tablea. The process of making tsokolate from tablea involves the use of a batirol, or a wooden mixing utensil with a bulb-like end. The handle of the batirol  is held between both palms and twisted. This not only mixes the ground cacao nibs in the tablea with the milk and water base, but also creates a frothy consistency. Notedly, salt is added, as it helps to diminish the bitterness of the roasted cacao beans while amplifying the other flavours in the drink. 

If you want to make this drink at home in the coming months, this link provides a great recipe for Tsokolate made using tablea tablets that can be found online.

CHAMPURRADO

Chocolate based drinks have been around in Mexico for a very long time. The first ancient brewers of chocolate-based drinks, the Mayans and Aztecs, had settlements and early cities in present-day central and southern Mexico. Differing from the beverage of those empires, Champurrado is a warm, mildly sweet chocolate drink of pre-Hispanic Mexican origins. The drink has a comfortingly thick and creamy consistency, one that is quite different from the milky thinness we are accustomed to in Canada. Atole, a mix of water and masa, or finely ground corn flour, is the key ingredient that gives champurrado its characteristic consistency. Mexican chocolate tablets, cinnamon sticks, and milk are added to this base, along with piloncillo, a golden brown form of pure cane sugar commonly used in Mexican cuisine. The result is a delectable hot chocolate beverage perfect for winter. 

An authentic recipe for champurrado can be found here. If you prefer to have your drinks prepared for you, the Ste. Catherine street location of Cacao 70 here in Montreal has champurrado listed on their menu. 

CHOCOLAT CHAUD

Cacao beans were introduced to France by Spanish explorers, when hot chocolate was largely thought of as an exotic drink for the upper classes of society, much like it was in other parts of the world. Today, this drink is enjoyed by all groups of French, especially Parisian, society. Authentic chocolat chaud from France comes from a simple recipe that directly emphasizes the flavour of chocolate. Top quality 60-80% cacao chocolate is chopped into small pieces, then combined with water and/or milk on the stovetop until completely melted and combined. Some recipes call for the addition of sugar. The addition  of milk in chocolat chaud can be slightly controversial, as some fear it weakens the strong chocolate flavour that is crucial for this drink. The velvety consistency and intense chocolate flavour of chocolat chaud is often enjoyed as a breakfast experience in France. 

To enjoy the simple delight of this type of chocolat chaud, you can visit CafΓ© Bazin in Westmount. The French cafe and bistro serves sweet and savoury French classics, including a delicious cup of hot chocolate made with 64% cacao chocolate, milk, and sugar. If, like me, you’ll be staying inside most of the time due to cold weather, you can try renowned pastry chef David Lebovitz’s online recipe for Parisian hot chocolate that uses milk and finely chopped bittersweet chocolate. 

CIOCCOLATA CALDA

Italy is another country that benefited from the global travel of the 15th and 16th centuries, as that is how cacao beans and hot chocolate were first introduced to the nation. The Italian audience received these goods well, and serving hot chocolate became an important practice for the elite, including the court of Medici. Italian hot chocolate, or cioccolata calda, is known for its thick, pudding-like consistency. It is creamier and richer than what we are used to here because of the use of high cacao percentage dark chocolate, milk, sugar, and a thickening agent, usually cornstarch or potato starch. Rather than being strictly a drink, cioccolata calda is usually slurped with small espresso spoons that sometimes stand upright in the cups. The drink is typically served alone or with whipped cream during the colder months in Italy, when enjoying it one spoonful at a time is said to be the perfect way to get through the chilly weather. 

Try this recipe on Eataly that not only explains the cooking process in a very detailed way, but also provides some helpful tips for making cioccolata calda at home. 

BELGIAN HOT CHOCOLATE

As a part of the Spanish Netherlands, present-day Belgium was once under the occupation of Spain from the late 16th century all the way up to the very early 18th century. Cacao beans from South America were brought to the area by explorers and travelers to please the nobility who β€œenjoyed cocoa as a luxury drink.” Over the years, chocolate production grew in Belgium; now, the nation produces some of the world’s finest chocolate. During that progression, local Belgians developed their own recipe of hot chocolate that uses a combination of high cacao percentage bittersweet chocolate and lower cacao percentage (usually around 35%) milk chocolate. These are combined with milk and a little bit of salt and cinnamon to produce a tasty, complex beverage that is typically served with whipped cream. 

David Lebovitz, a chef trained in both French and Belgian cuisine, also has an easy-to-follow recipe for Belgian hot chocolate. 

COLOMBIAN HOT CHOCOLATE

Just as with Mexico, cacao cultivation and beverage making have been a part of Colombian society for many, many years. Interestingly, β€œunlike most other countries that grow cacao, Colombia’s production has mostly been aimed at meeting demands within its own bordersβ€”not so much for chocolate bars, but for traditional drinking chocolate.” The flavour profile here is more bitter than sweet. This afternoon snack is traditionally made with dark chocolate tablets and water but it can also be prepared with sugar and milk and/or water. A molinillo, or a specialized hand tool similar to the Aztec batirol, is used to mix and froth this mixture. What makes this variation of hot chocolate really stand out from the others is a uniquely Colombian addition… cheese! The marriage between chocolate and cheese is so strong in Colombia that there is a local saying about it: β€œchocolate sin queso es como amor sin beso, chocolate without cheese is like love without a kiss.” The cheeses that are typically used include queso campesino and queso doble crema. The specific melting properties of these cheeses allow them to keep their shape as they melt. This means that when you reach the bottom of your mug, there is a gooey surprise awaiting you. Other cheeses can also be used, like fresh mozzarella. 

Try out this recipe the next time you are craving a sweet, salty, chocolatey treat. 

HOT CHOCOLATE BOMB

The last entry in this list is the hot chocolate bomb. While it is not necessarily a variation of hot chocolate, the unique experience of seeing a hollow chocolate sphere gradually disintegrate in hot milk to reveal a mix of hot chocolate powder, marshmallows, and other add-ins certainly justifies a mention in this article. The chocolate bomb is a recent phenomenon, as it started appearing in the late 2010s in specific places around North America. With the COVID-19 pandemic, its popularity increased, largely due to TikTok. The dessert takes a modern, β€œdeconstructed” approach to the classic hot chocolate, where each component of a dish is prepared alone and then presented together to reflect the spirit of the original dish. Drinking a hot chocolate bomb is truly an experience, as it involves the interactive aspect of mixing the components of the drink yourself. 

Hot chocolate bombs from Smash Cakes MTL can be ordered on Instagram. You can also DIY this dessert by following this simple recipe to make your own hot chocolate bomb. 

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