Thanksgiving has never been big in my home. My mom has many lovely hostess qualities, but a Norman Rockwell Thanksgiving table was never in the picture, at least not until I moved out of the house (there’s something to be thankful for). Thanksgiving is even less big for me now because I’m an American in Canada, and instead of celebrating twice I usually just don’t celebrate at all. 

But this year, I got lucky and had friends to celebrate with, and we ate and drank well: pumpkin-shaped sourdough, maple-glazed carrots, burnt brussel sprouts, sweet potato shepherd’s pie, simple baked pears with even simpler candied nuts, Caramelized Honey Pumpkin Pie from Claire Saffitz’s Dessert Person, and demi-sec cider from Clos Saragnat. I also untastefully stuck mini pumpkins from Atwater Market in every spare nook of my already-crowded apartment. And I listened to She & Him’s new Christmas single a few times, which was released in September of all months—right around when I like to start putting on holiday jingles. Honestly, though, I would have been quite alright with swinging by Pharmaprix for a frozen pizza and rewatching The Chair.

I do remain a Thanksgiving purist in one sense, and it even includes you, dear readers! I am giving thanks, even if this year was the driest of turkey breasts and the soggiest of pie crusts. A part of me absolutely resents listing all the things I’m grateful for because I don’t want to imagine the bleakness of the dinner table in other homes, of those with an empty seat, of those with little on the table, of those who used to cook Thanksgiving feasts for filled dining rooms. But a part of me also resents that I imagine that we have been so brutally smacked around by the pandemic that we have become nothing but the pandemic and its aftereffects, and that’s simply not true. 

So I’m raising a glass of that cider to those present and absent at the dinner table who have had more than their fair share of shit kicked out of them by this past year. Giving thanks to those who have gone into combat against the virus, and yes, that includes you and your body, and me and mine as well. And while I’m at it, I give thanks to independent cafés who are not above making a PSL, the mini-ecosystem beneath the flaming dead leaves that have begun their descent onto our streets, the parting of humid mornings, standing at the bottom of McTavish and looking up at Mont Royal in its autumn jacket, and going apple-picking at Cidrerie Milton because it’s cute as hell. 

But I give the most thanks to the team at On the Table, who have wicked ideas about food and give their time to this journal, which started from a daydream of mine and is now an actual publication run by actual people who have an actual interest in food that cannot be captured by that flippant F-word, foodie. 

Naturally, I also give thanks to you, readers; there are not yet many of you, I know, but like us, you are showing up for the beginning of something promising and incredibly exciting. Just showing up does so much, especially right now. 

Now, happy post-turkey/tofu substitute food coma. 

Happy Thanksgiving / Bonne action de grâce!

Editor-in-Chief

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