Street food vendor serve their customers in Mumbai. (photo credit: Lonely Planet)

Staying Afloat in Street Food Post-Pandemic

March 23, 2022

By Viva Noronha

From overflowing bowls of bhel puri on the bustling streets of Mumbai to gorditas bubbling away in oil-filled cauldrons in the parks in Michoacan, street food is nostalgic and forward thinking all in one. From anyone who resides in or frequents cities in their travels, the familiar sizzles, crackles, and pops can be music to the ears, delighting our senses with the sounds that amplify the taste. The propagation of street food globally has accompanied urbanization and caters to the evolving consumer demand for more affordability, choice,  convenience, and  innovation. Street food has become woven into not only the cultural, but the socioeconomic, fabric of the modern metropolis. It regales consumers with the varied offerings of a region’s gastronomy, while also providing a viable livelihood for urban populations. Having a foothold in the informal sector means that the contributions of street food extend beyond the marketplace to provide cultural empowerment, vibrancy amid the regularity of urban landscapes, and increased accessibility to food. 

Owing to the surging stringency of our health care and sanitation systems as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, I pondered how street food vendors might have had to adapt given the relative casualness and leniency with which street food quality standards are upheld, particularly in developing cities. Furthermore, the verticalness of our food supply chains, when destabilized by the impacts of the pandemic, caused an uprooting of normal business functions. Does the convertible and pliant nature of street food make it more resilient to the impacts of the pandemic? Are we at a unique moment in time at which we have come to not only rely on, but cherish, informal connections? Is it possible that our favorite local street food vendors can offer some solace by enabling us to engage and cultivate meaningful experiences in the relatively risk-free outdoors?

A study that explored the immediate impacts of COVID-19 and coping strategies in Vietnam, Thailand, and Laos found that the most significant, direct effect of the first wave of the pandemic was a halving of street vendors’ incomes. In response, many turned to slashing personal food consumption to absorb the shocks, if they weren’t able to secure familial loans. Others discounted items to reflect the reduced incomes of all citizens and meet consumer demands. The reduction in tourism to uphold the informal street vending economy, combined with a low or complete lack of state support, has compounded the bleak state of the street vendor industry in these cities. While the level of enforcement of restrictions varied among the larger cities, the livelihoods of street food vendors everywhere have become increasingly compromised by the unpredictability of the virus. The study suggests that the circumstances of street vendors warrant a flow of emergency state funding, seeing as their contributions to the urban economy are far-reaching. Ultimately, it concludes that COVID-19 is an opportunity for urban planners to rethink the priorities of public space development in a way that is equitable for all public citizens, including mobilizing public spaces for street vendors. 

“Street food vendors often bear the brunt of more restrictive regulation. Zoning for stall set up is restricted, while there are limits to the hours of operation for vendors . . . The loss of street food may accompany a degradation of global cultures and communities.”

Service provision within the informal sector, especially that of food and beverages, accounts for over 80% of an average African country’s economy. The high volume activity of street vendors was curbed by various restrictions implemented by African governments, including the closures of public places of exchange, such as  streets and markets. In Uganda, only food and beverage street vendors were prohibited from operating, increasing the financial vulnerability of these workers. Ghanian street vendors experienced a 90% reduction in incomes. The pandemic created a focal challenge, where a balance had to be struck between maintaining virus outbreaks and mitigating the harms caused to people’s livelihoods. A study found that a combined approach might be the best way forward. A liaison between street vendors and government authorities can cultivate a mutual understanding of upholding sanitary measures. State support in the form of immediate relief materials, tax cuts, and collaborative partnerships can be combined with community-based education efforts and resource pooling to distribute sanitary materials. This offers a novel vision for how the street food sector can organize to revive itself within the paradigm of a global pandemic. 

In India, women are now slowly occupying a larger percentage of the professional workforce, but they have been operating within the informal workforce for far longer. An interesting consideration in the conversation about adaptation strategies for street vendors is the gender dynamic. A study found that women in the state of Bengaluru, despite being fully occupied with household work as a primary job, were increasingly taking up work as street food vendors because it offered them a chance to engage in market-level activity, effectively increasing their worth and sense of self. The benefits of increasing female participation in the street food sector range from increased hygiene consciousness, to better nutritional value of the food, to a cultivation of human capital through hiring and training new workers. As urban economies attempt to rebuild their service sectors, it’s important that policies address protections and promotions for women so that they may be a part of the story moving forward. 

Regardless of its place in developed or underdeveloped economies, street food continues to bear the brunt of low investment,  prioritization, and protection from city governments. In the United States, restaurants and brick and mortar establishments may be part of associations that lobby state and federal governments for more protections from competition. As a result, street food vendors often bear the brunt of more restrictive regulation. Zoning for stall set up is restricted, while there are limits to the hours of operation for vendors. This phasing out of a key player in urban service systems can cause harms that extend beyond the economic realm. The loss of street food may accompany a degradation of global cultures and communities. As such, grassroots efforts may be the most salient way to convey the importance of street food vendors. Campaigns launched in California highlighting the discriminatory nature of street food regulation, as well as the economic benefits of it, resulted in an amending of state policy to only regulate street food on the basis of health and safety, demonstrating how worthwhile change can be enacted through human agency.

The pandemic forced us to move the frenzied rhythms of social interactions and exchange to online spheres as a means of staying connected. Social media has been used in novel ways to garner support for causes, propel unassuming businesses into viral popularity, and generally be used for personal branding efforts. Through their investments in their social media networks, Italian street food company Pescaria, which supplies take-away seafood products, established an online presence that allowed them to quickly reconfigure their marketing strategies when the pandemic hit. They strengthened their delivery network, outsourced cooking to support high delivery volumes, and increased online customer engagement by requesting for suggestions and comments from customers. This enabled them to create an innovative experience that accounted for changing consumer behaviors in the face of COVID-19. 

As a result of  the pandemic, street vendors incur reduced revenue due to fewer customers,  and increased operational costs due to the necessity of purchasing  sanitary items. Consequently, they begin to lose the initial benefits of their usual business model, which are low overheads and high product turnover. Street food evokes a variety of sentiments, like delight and nostalgia, among its community and has the widespread benefits of preserving the cultural essence of a region. Reinvigorating its place in the service sector will involve innovation on the part of vendors to adapt their service to an increasingly health conscious public, advocacy for street food service by loyal customer bases, and increased support by city governments.

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